Subject: Maintenance Stuff
It's that time of
With riding season coming upon us at a high rate of speed, we need to do the maintenance thing. I see a lot of bikes in and around Yongsan. Every new riding season requires operators to check the following (with great attention to the details) -
Military Regulations governing riding attire are clear. They make sense and must be obeyed. Be like Nike - JUST DO IT!
Glasses - The PX/BX sells protective wrap around glasses (clear and shaded). These glasses work well with most faces. Sky is the limit on style. Just make sure they do what they are designed to do. Yellow lenses are best for
Clothing - There are two kinds of riders - Those that have gone down, and those that will. Leather is always the best protection. Many tests indicate that leather protects better than most other materials. Dress accordingly.
Helmets - This is a subject for great discussion. I suggest the full face break-away jaw. I need to buy one myself.....HJC factory store in SUWON?
Footwear - boots, boots, boots with steel toes
Gloves - Full finger gloves are just good practice. Bugs smashing into your bare knuckles at 60mph just hurts.
Snivel gear - Baclavas are key, rain suits are a must (Gore-Tex is key), and a handkerchief (don't ask, you'll figure it out)
Windshields - Wash'em with SIMPLE GREEN and coat it with PLEDGE. Polish with glass polish to get rid of the wind swirls when necessary.
Tires - Tires on Korean roads get about half the normal life expected. Wear bars are an indicator that it's too late. Dry rot (cracking) and uneven wear indicate new rubber is required. Tire pressure is key to safe riding. Changing pressure for conditions is important.
Brake Pads - Same on brake pads.....half the normal life expectancy. Don't let'em go to far. Replacing $50 brake pads instead of a $350 brake rotor is always better.
Wheel Bearings - Front and back wheel bearings (old style/hand packed) need to be replaced every 10,000 miles. It ain't worth a broken wheel or axle.
Lights - All marking and signal lamps need to be checked. It's easier just to replace all with new ones and drive on.
Lens Covers - Stock lens covers crack no matter what you do. Check'em, replace'em and coat the edges with a small bead of silicone gasket material.
Headlights - Most bikes take an H4 Halogen replacement lamp. Buy one and keep it tucked away when traveling.
Seats - Real leather seats (bags too) need to be coated in MINK OIL. Don't worry, it will soak up very quickly. It is even better to use SNOSEAL on top of MINK OIL is your bike stays in the weather. Folks with FACSIMILE LEATHER
can use ARMORALL to clean and lubricate the seat (that first ride is a bear to stay on the seat).
Clutch/Brake Cables - USE GRAPHITE!!! Pour it into the cables at the high end.
Tranny Fluid - Tranny fluid lasts a long time......just make sure you check the dip stick, change at the right interval, and if you ever ride through deep puddles change it immediately.
Neck bearings - The handle bars connect to the triple tree connects to the frame neck connects to the front-end connects to the wheel. Bad neck bearings equal bad steering control equals bad accident. There is a quick way to check neck bearing play. Straddle your front wheel, pin the wheel in with your legs, attempt to rock the handle bars from back to rear. Any play needs to be checked out. It shouldn't move!
Batteries - BOTTOM LINE - If it's 2 years old, change it! The new AGM battery (stocked at H-D) is a fine battery. Motorcycle batteries take beating. It's not worth getting stranded. If the battery shows some corrosion use a baking soda slurry on the terminals to clean them. Batteries are key to your riding success, don't forget about'em.
Wires - Boy, I'm an expert on this one --- Wiring harnesses are always a challenge. It seems that electrical shorts ruin many rides. The best way to avoid them is always check the "UNDER-THE-SEAT" wires. Look for rubs. If
your notice your bike cutting out at a certain speed or on bumps....guess what? ....you got an exposed wire. These are always a bear to chase.....just don't let it get worse, it will make more trouble if not fixed.
Washing - We have discovered that the best washing solution for motorcycles in SIMPLE GREEN, a big sponge, 5 gallon bucket of water, and a soft bristle bottle washer. Spray the bike (only when the engine and pipes are cool) SIMPLE GREEN. I mean coat that sucker! It won't hurt the paint or the seat either. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then start scrubbing with a clean sponge. Always make sure the sponge is clean since it will hold little rocks and that redo you paint if you're not careful. Now, if you're lucky, go to a high pressure car wash and spray your bike down after letting the SIMPLE GREEN soak on the bike. There is a hazard with pressure washing. It gets into the electrical system and can cause a lot of starting problems. It can get into gas tanks, engine oil, etc. BEWARE USING PRESSURE WASHERS!
To BARONS MC